E4 - Is the Belay Competency Drop Test Still Valid?

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4+ y ago 48:53

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What is the Belay Competency Drop Test?
Brief history of past papers and arguments discussing the topic.
How do you have a good test to test something where you have to let go of it to make it work?
Is there a way to account for the human element?
Is there a better test?
If one line fails, is it still controllable?
Where do you want your best guy?
What is the safest belay system?
When was the last time there was a main line failure during a real operation as opposed to training?

Links:

1:05 ASTM F2436 - 14(2019) https://www.astm.org/Standards/F2436.htm
4:05 John Dill, 1991, Are You Really on Belay?, Part 1 (from Response Magazine, Summer 1991) https://caves.org/section/vertical/nhback/NH32.pdf
4:05 John Dill, 1991, Again.....Are you REALLY on Belay, Part 2 (from Response Magazine, Fall 1991) http://itrsonline.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/OnBelay.Thorne.20071.pdf
Russel McCullar, An Analysis of the Modern‐Day Belay: Competent Belay or Competent Belayer? http://itrsonline.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/McCullar-Belay-ITRS-2017-Revised_12.pdf
13:10 Kelly Byrne blog discussing not letting go: http://rescue2training.com/?p=1355
16:40 Link to future episode 'Belay High, Low or through and AZTEK on AZV'
22:45 Kirk Mauthner, ITRS 2014 Moving Beyond 10:1 SSSF http://itrsonline.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/008.Mauthner.2014.pdf
Kirk Mauthner, ITRS 2016 Dual Capability Two Tensioned Rope Systems (DC TTRS) http://itrsonline.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/Mauthner-Presentation-ITRS-2016-v2.pdf
22:55 Mike Gibbs & Kevin Koprek, ITRS 2019 Two Tension or Not to Tension, http://itrsonline.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Two-Tension-or-Not-to-Tension_Koprek_2019.pdf
23:00/23:36 Russ McCullar ITRS 2017 An Analysis of the Modern‐Day Belay: Competent Belay or Competent Belayer? http://itrsonline.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/McCullar-Belay-ITRS-2017-Revised_12.pdf
23:00 Russ McCullar ITRS 2015 An Analysis of Traditional Un-tensioned Belays and Two-tensioned Rope Systems in Rope Rescue http://itrsonline.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/McCullar_Analysis-of-Traditional-and-Two-tensioned-Rope-Systems.pdf
23:10 Tom Pendley ITRS 2017 Slow Pull Testing of 8 mm Prusik Loops in Basket Hitch and Girth Hitch Configurations http://itrsonline.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/2017_Analysis-of-8mm-prusik-loops_Pendley.pdf
23:15 Tom Pendley ITRS 2018 Belay performance testing with a Petzl ASAP Lock at the anchor http://itrsonline.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Pendley_Petzl-ASAP-Belay-Testing.pdf
23:15 Tom Pendley ITRS 2017 Slow Pull Testing of Track Line Tensioning Systems Used in High Line Systems. http://itrsonline.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/2017_High-line-force_Pendley.pdf
33:10 Kirk Mauthner, 2016, EMBC Rope Rescue NIF Equipment Testing Summary Report https://members.bcsara.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/EMBC-Rope-NIF-Basecamp-Testing-Results.pdf

Additional Links:

DRR Rescue 2012 AZ Vortex Drop Testing Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PEyUnEEwdLI&feature=youtu.be
SAR3 List of Belay Testing: http://sarrr.weebly.com/belays.html

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