Nok Suntaranon remembers eating like royalty growing up inThailand, even though her family was poor, thanks to her mother’s skills in the kitchen. And it’s the food of her childhood that she is cooking at her Philadelphia restaurant Kalaya, named for her mom, which she did not open untilthe age of 50. She had been enjoying life as a housewife but says there’s only so much Pilates, yoga, and lunching a person can do. Just a few years later, she won the 2023 James Beard Award as best chef in the mid-Atlantic. She’s been featured on Top Chef. She’s written a cookbook, Kalaya’s Southern Thai Kitchen. And she contends that Philadelphia is now America’s number one food town.